Dior is launching a new anti-aging skin-care line, called Capture Youth. The LVMH-owned brand will target a 30-something audience seeking preventative, aka, anti-aging skin care.
In October, 2017 Dior announced that Cara Delevingne was chosen as the face of the Capture Youth Campaign. The announcement took place just two months after Allure Magazine announced that they would drop the term “anti-aging” in future publications. A decision that was driven by a philosophy of embracing and not fighting the aging process, as “anti” would insinuate.
Included in this announcement Allure stated, “whether we know it or not, we’re subtly reinforcing the message that aging is a condition we need to battle-think antianxiety meds, antivirus software, or antifungal spray.”
The Dior appointment of Delevingne and the Allure message did not mix well and became controversial quickly. The facts quickly blurred with some assuming Cara would be the face of the entire Dior cosmetic line. People took to social media to express the distaste with the appointment of Delevingne, citing that she was simply too young to be involved in an anti-aging campaign.
Others took to social media to squash the notion of “anti-aging” all together.
Allure, a favorite beauty publication of mine, chose to phase out a term that has been used in the skin care industry for decades. It is a well-intended decision; aging is something to embrace, and to feel lucky for experiencing.
The Allure announcement became a crutch of sorts for critics to imply that Dior was not attentive to the changing landscape of the beauty world.
I love a good debate, when it’s based on facts. I wanted to take this opportunity to give you information about the skin, about products and about Cara, after all she sparked this controversy, and allow you to draw your own conclusion.
Prevention Vs. Reversal in Skin Care
The consumer criticisms to this campaign missed one key element; “prevention” versus “reversal.”
In the skin care industry, that difference is huge from a business perspective. As a consumer, it should be huge to you too, since you want a product you purchase to meet your individual expectation.
The skin is comprised of many layers, and to explain it as simply as I can, the epidermis makes up the top layers and the dermis makes up the bottom layers.
When you purchase preventative products, aka “anti-aging” products they work with the epidermis. These products must comply with regulations that vary by country and are designed to protect the skin. These are the products we can purchase over the counter, whether in a drug store, department store or a recognized internet retailer.
Can products help to reverse skin damage?
Yes. However, the non-invasive nature of the products makes it more challenging to penetrate the dermis, and take longer to work. The gratification of this category of products is not instant.
The dermis is where collagen and elastin are produced. Treatments and products available at a Dermatologist or Plastic Surgeons office, such as Restylene®, Botox® or Juvederm® get deeper in to the skin via injection and are not available over the counter. These products will either instantaneously reverse lines, loose skin or skin discoloration and pigmentation, within a few hours, or a few days maximum.
These are two different methodologies in skin care and it is important to know which approach is right for you.
Now that we have established that…
“Anti-Aging” The Term
Benjamin Franklin, one of the Founding Fathers of the United States once said, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” In layman’s terms, it’s easier to prevent a problem than it is to fix one; and “No”, he was not referring to skin care. As a matter of fact, he was referring to fire safety, but that is a different conversation for a different day.
Dermatologists, Estheticians and Skin Care Enthusiasts have used a variation of this axiom when describing the role of Anti-Aging Products in the daily skin care regime for decades.
The concept of self-care, whether termed “anti-aging” “preventative care” or “daily maintenance” makes little difference to your skin because physiologically the body undergoes changes throughout each decade of your life. Those changes impact your skin, just as they do any other organ. Your skin, being the largest organ requires care, just as you engage in cardiovascular exercise for your heart.
While I do not dispute Allure phasing out the term “anti-aging,” the body changes and there is nothing wrong with wanting to support those changes.
A fact that fell to the wayside in the controversial debates, is that Capture Youth is targeting 30-somethings. Many critics voiced discontent because they are 50-something and using Dior. Delevingne is not representing that product.
The products are preventative, not reversal products. In my experience, the earlier a person begins prevention, the better; and therefore, the chosen model seems like a reasonable decision.
What changes can females expect?
I would be remiss if I did not add some facts about what happens to the skin over your 30’s, 40’s and 50’s.
In your 30s, the collagen that makes your skin strong and the elastin, which makes it elastic, begins to noticeably diminish. That combined breakdown is what leads to the fine lines that seem to creep up out of nowhere on your face. Childbearing, often in this decade leads to what is known as melasma, a discoloration of the skin. Lack of sleep becomes more evident by dark circles and you may find that you do not “bounce back” the way you did in the decade prior.
The 40s impacts your lymphatic system which can lead to more visible puffiness and dark circles on the eyes. Lymph becomes super important for the face overall as production slows and can lead to more puffiness along the cheeks as well. Less oil production can make the skin more susceptible to environmental damage. Pollution and free radicals in the air can penetrate the thinning lipid barrier.
In your 50s, hormones play a major role in the workings of your skin. Hyperpigmentation becomes more prevalent, and sebum production slows down drastically. Elasticity also declines significantly, hence loose skin and deeper lines.
I would like to note, that while the above changes relate to the physiological changes of a woman, men are not saved from this phenomenon known as aging. Male counterparts have thicker skin biologically, so in some cases the breakdown can appear slower, but it is still taking place. Gentlemen certainly age on the same principles due to a decrease in collagen, elastin and sebum production all of which are necessary to maintain a youthful appearance.
Women and Men can benefit from preventative skin care.
Who is Cara Delevingne?
Since she sparked such a deep dive in to skin care, I had to find out more about her…
Cara Delevingne, a British model and actress was born in 1992. She won Model of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in 2012 and 2014 and has modeled for Burberry, Chanel, Jason Wu and Mulberry, to name a few. She began acting in 2012 with a minor role in the 2012 film adaptation of Anna Karenina. She has had starring roles in London Fields, Suicide Squad and Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets.
She is certainly accomplished given her young age, and without a doubt, it seemed all over social media even those opposed to Diors choice used terminology such as “lovely,” “beautiful” and “breathtaking” to describe her.
All of this said, is she the right choice to represent a 30-something and an anti-aging campaign?
Yes! The earlier, the better! Let’s get the word out about protecting your skin in your 20s! Hopefully you live to well over 100; and if you look half your age by then it is an added bonus!
Angela Ranieri joins us as Contributing Editor with an extensive background in Fashion, Beauty and Digital Media. She has worked with PRADA USA Corp., Jurlique, Amore Pacific and the New York Daily News in management capacities including Marketing, Client Relations, Employee Relations and Training Management. She has authored and published the column, “Ask Angela,” featured on the Amore Pacific USA website. Her beauty advice has been featured in Shape and Fitness Magazines and CBS News.
She is a graduate of Syracuse University with a Bachelor of Science in Communications and Writing. Angela also has an MBA in Marketing and Entrepreneurship from Northeastern University. While at Northeastern, her Market Research on the Electric Car was published for University use.
Angela is currently creator of Circuit Cosmetics, a Brand Ambassador for luxury beauty line, Patchology, an On Air Guest for QVC and blogger for www.thelaughinmommy.blogspot.com.
In her spare time you can find Angela running, spinning, practicing yoga or getting beautified. She resides on the Upper West Side of Manhattan with her Husband, Son, and Chihuahuas.