This ‘piece unique’ multicoloured, unheated, sapphire necklace is from Oscar Heyman & Bros. of New York.
Oscar Heyman & Bros. of New York
Brothers Oscar, Nathan and Henry Heyman immigrated to the US from Eastern Europe in the early 1900’s. By 1912, the brothers founded Oscar Heyman & Bros. in New York. Oscar and Nathan had trained at their uncle’s Fabergé workshop before leaving Europe, and were skilled in working in platinum, a new metal at the time for jewelry. before the term was invented, the family was already practicing “vertical integration” in their workshop with a self-contained system of manufacturing high quality jewelry, even making their own tools. They were credited with being the first American jewelry company to master the invisible setting, which was introduced to the USA by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1936.
Oscar Heyman & Bros. is better known within the industry than to the public because of their history as a “jeweler’s jeweler”, creating pieces for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. For example, their most famous work: in 1969, Oscar Heyman was commissioned by Cartier to create the exquisite setting for the 69.42 carat Taylor-Burton diamond. The design was a V-shaped necklace comprised of 53 graduated pear-shaped diamonds.
Today, Oscar Heyman produces jewelry under its own name, such as this floral spray brooch. Each flower is made of blue, pink and pale yellow sapphires with just a sprinkle of diamonds. The mounting is 3-dimensional, made more real with untamed stems and curling leaves. The diamond swirled ribbon looks like it is moving in the wind.
Their workshop of craftspeople includes jewelers, setters, engravers, polishers and lapidaries. They still maintain their own tool-and-die shop, forge their own metals, cut and polish their gemstones and trace each piece through the process with a unique engraved number until it leaves the atelier.
Unheated Padparadscha Sapphire Necklace
Padparadscha refers to a rare colour range of sapphire, somewhat between orange and pink. The highest quality stones come from Sri Lanka and the name derives from the Sinhalese word ‘padma radschen’ meaning “aquatic lotus blossom”, a flower of the same hue.
Oscar Heyman & Bros are at pains to stress that these gems are unheated because natural stones of this colour are rare indeed.
The 45 unheated oval padparadscha sapphires with total carat weight of 56.06 cts are arranged with 23.63 cts of pear shape blue sapphires and 6.25 cts of round diamonds. The visual effect is simulataneously bold and feminine.
If you have drawn a blank for Valentine’s Day, this could be your “Get Out of Jail” card.
As a one-of-a-kind piece, the ‘love-of-your-life’ will certainly know it.
We tried hard to find out the cost of this wonder but alas, it is listed as “Price on Request”. I guess like the adage from their original Eastern European origins, at Oscar Heyman: “All requests are equal but some request are created more equal than others!”
If you have to ask the price……..
Oscar Heyman & Brothers
501 Madison Ave #15, New York, NY 10022
Telephone: +1.(212) 5930400
Author’s Biography: Melvyn Teillol-Foo (MTF)
Dr Melvyn Teillol-Foo is a contributor on AlphaLuxe web-zine.
He is also a moderator on PuristSPro.com horology discussion fora. He blends his scientific medical objectivity from the pharmaceutical industry with purist passion, in his musings about watches, travel, wine, food and other epicurean delights.
His travelogue ‘Lazing’ and feasting ‘Grazing’ series of articles have now passed into “mythic legend” on the original ‘ThePuristS.com’ website. Those were the halcyon days when he was “rich and famous” that he remembers with bittersweet fondness.
Dr Teillol-Foo is a quoted enthusiast on the watch industry, appearing in feature articles and interviews by Wall Street Journal, International Herald Tribune, Sunday Times (London), Chronos (Japan), Citizen Hedonist (France) and other publications. He has authored articles for magazines like International Watch (iW) – both U.S. & Chinese editions, ICON (Singapore), August Man (Singapore), Comfort (China) and The Watch (Hong Kong).